Trails
unexpected
of the
From Nature to City Adventures:
How Tirana Offers the Best of Both Worlds
Flanked by majestic Mount Dajti and its surrounding lakes, Tirana boasts a bounty of outdoor activities on its doorstep. But visitors don’t need to leave the Albanian capital’s city limits to enjoy a taste of adventure.
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tirana
British Airways offers direct and regular flights
from London Gatwick to Tirana.
from the gorgeous landscapes that encircle it
Contemporary Tirana has taken its cue
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A monument from the city’s Communist past, the Pyramid of Tirana is a striking
structure that’s scaled by daring locals
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words by Elise Morton —— photography by Nick St Oegger —— illustration by ANa galvaÑ
The Tirana Pyramid, a monumental concrete structure originally intended as a museum, is a popular hangout spot for adventurous types (you might even see some locals attempting to scale it). Likewise, the Grand Park of Tirana is a vast green playground where you can try your hand at kayaking, or take a dip in one of the public swimming pools.
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Tirana’s many outdoor trails make it ideal for runners and cyclists
Once an emblem of post-Communist urban chaos, contemporary Tirana has taken its cue from the gorgeous landscapes that encircle it. Space, freedom and a sense of adventure characterise the evolving city – and with an abundance of green spaces and people-focused design, the Albanian capital is now making a name for itself as a destination for urban explorers.
Long known as Tirana’s centre of gravity, Skanderbeg Square (named after Albania’s national hero) is a prime example of the city’s rejuvenation. Monthly car-free days around the vast plaza have made way for the total pedestrianisation of the square. Brightly coloured sofa-esque benches and lush islands of grass offer respite for weary walkers, while it’s also a popular hub for skaters.
The narrative that Tirana is breaking free from its Communist past is perhaps a little misleading; the city is also studded with fascinating architectural reminders of this recent chapter (which ended in 1990), but these too are being swept up in Tirana’s metamorphosis and reclaimed by a young city, the majority of whose people have no memory of the Communist period.
The park is also home to Mullixhiu restaurant, a refined spot with decor akin to a wooden cabin in the countryside. The tasting menu at this gourmet yet well-priced eatery offers a journey through the country’s fertile fields and forests. Try a salad of pumpkin and persimmon, gnocchi with Elbasan saffron or tagliatelle-esque jufka with cheese from Albania’s remote north.
Tirana’s irresistible energy is born of its rich past and propensity for change – so while its rural side might tempt lovers of the great outdoors to hike and cycle around its mountainous trails,
a day around the city guarantees an urban adventure that
won’t disappoint.
Tirana is surrounded by mountains, giving visitors the opportunity
to go from city to countryside in a flash
Old and new architecture sit side by side in the city centre
The city’s hills and mountains offer stunning views
The Grand Park of Tirana provides a welcome respite from the hustle and bustle of the city
The BunkArt 2 museum dome was once home to a nuclear bunker
Tirana’s warm weather makes it ideal for al-fresco dining
The Great Mosque of Tirana will hold up to 5,000 worshippers upon its completion
Tirana’s warm weather makes it ideal for al-fresco dining
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Prices start from £55 each way, based on a return fare.
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© 2019 Culture Trip LTD. All Rights Reserved
British Airways offers direct and
regular flights from London Gatwick
to Tirana.
Book now at ba.com
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next stop: amsterdam
that encircle it
has taken its cue from
Contemporary Tirana
A hike up Mount Srd, which looms over the Old Town, will reward you with sweeping views of the coastline. Stop for an iced coffee at the Panorama Restaurant & Bar – the only spot for respite at the top which offers exceptional panoramas of the city and coast – before taking the zigzagging trail or scenic cable car down. Chill out for the rest of the afternoon on Sveti Jakov beach; you’ll find this local hangout in a cove 25 minutes’ walk south of the Old Town.
Start your break with a two-hour ramble around Dubrovnik’s medieval walls. You’ll get first-class views of the Old Town’s terracotta rooftops, tidy gardens and daily life in the streets. Or, see the walls from a different angle by renting a kayak and paddling around the rocks and bays by the nearby Fort Lovrijenac – which served as a location for Game of Thrones.
By early evening, the locals have reclaimed the Old Town’s pedestrianised limestone streets. Join them for a stroll along Stradun, the main promenade, before heading out of Pile Gate to discover the bars and restaurants outside the Old Town. All the good spots are within walking distance, including the cool vaulted interior and shaded terrace at the Mediterranean restaurant and bar Sesame. But if you’re after seafood with a view, try the Ala Mizerija café in a little cove beside Fort Lovrijenac.
A boat trip to the island of Lokrum takes just 15 minutes. The lush island feels a world away from Dubrovnik, and is populated by a variety of local wildlife, including parades of wild peacocks. Bring a picnic to tuck into after exploring the island’s forest trails, botanical gardens and the ruins of a Benedictine monastery. You can cool off with a wild swim in the seawater lagoon, or find a sunny spot on the rocky beach.
The enchanting village of Cavtat, which sits on a two-pronged peninsula, should be your next stop; it’s about a half-hour bus ride – or a pleasant boat trip from the Old Port. Wander along the wooded trails that hug the Rat peninsula, where you’ll find rustic beach cafés and swimming spots in the many coves. If you’re feeling peckish, stick around to dive into a plate of mussels at the Restaurant Leut on Cavtat’s waterfront before heading back.
Mountainous backdrops, the glittering Adriatic Sea, medieval architecture and shiny limestone streets combine to make Dubrovnik
a destination of real beauty. Here’s how to spend 48 hours enjoying Croatia’s great outdoors.
A Weekend
of Wandering
in Dubrovnik
Words by Mary Novakovich
Photography by Nick St Oegger
Illustration by Ana Galvañ
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Trails
unexpected
of the
the gorgeous landscapes
Experience an action-packed adventure in Tirana – from kayaking and mountain biking to hiking along the Albanian capital’s rocky trails.
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